VIVE LA REVOLUTION!

The revolution in the late 50’s has had profound effect on Cuba and its people. It infuses every aspect of their life, and posters, squares, statues herald Che and the various heroes. It is impossible to travel around Cuba without being reminded of the revolution – that happened over 60 years ago!

Source Wikipedia:

The Cuban Revolution (1953–1959) was an armed revolt conducted by Fidel Castro's 26th of July Movement and its allies against the government of Cuban President Fulgencio Batista. The revolution began in July 1953, and finally ousted Batista on 1 January 1959, replacing his government with a revolutionary socialist state. The Movement organisation later reformed along communist lines, becoming the Communist Party in October 1965. The Communist Party, now headed by Castro's brother Raúl, continues to govern Cuba today.

The Cuban Revolution had great domestic and international repercussions; in particular, it reshaped Cuba's relations with the United States, which continues an embargo against Cuba as of 2013. In the immediate aftermath of the revolution, Castro's government began a program of nationalization and political consolidation that transformed Cuba's economy and civil society. The revolution also heralded an era of Cuban intervention into foreign military conflicts, including the Angolan Civil War and Nicaraguan Revolution.

Ernesto "Che" Guevara 

(June 14, 1928 – October 9, 1967), commonly known as el Che or simply Che, was an Argentine Marxist revolutionary, physician, author, guerrilla leader, diplomat, and military theorist. A major figure of the Cuban Revolution, his stylized visage has become a ubiquitous countercultural symbol of rebellion and global insignia within popular culture.

The Cuban Flag

En route to Cayo Coco

 Memorial in Cienfeugos for the Angolan soliders

 Cienfeugos

In and around Havana where tributes to the Revolution seemed the most prolific

Moron

 Santa Clara

Santiego de Cuba

Trinidad

 In the hotel in Varadero

15th November, 2013

Heading for Havana

Like homing pigeons we found our way back to Havana after spending most of the day in Veradero. The weather was grotty, so the beach was out of the question. We drove down to the end of the peninsula, open mouthed at the volume of accommodation available, with construction continuing. I can't even imagine what it must be like in high season.

The impressive Mansion Zanadu, formerly owned from 1920-50 by American millionaire Alfred Irenee Dupont. Now a restaurant with limited accommodation. Close by is the Varadero Golf Course, a big draw card for tourists. 

They are many 'flea markets' each selling the same things (just like Africa). We found a young jeweller and his father who make bracelets from old silver forks and spoons. The son was the Cuban backstroke champ for 6 years.

Before leaving the peninsula we sat on the curb with all the karrietjie mense (Cuba's version of horse cart drivers!) and ate pork, rice, sweet potatoes, green and black beans, a hearty meal for 3CUC (R30).

Hair raising street dining. Acutally I am talking nonsense. 

Just jealous of Llyris' abundant curls.

We settled into the Park View Hotel, our home for the next 3 nights. Rob had met a young artist 2 weeks ago called Jose Claudio Rodriguez Liy and was still keen to buy his paintings. We eventually found his gallery and between us all we bought 5 pieces. In order to ‘export’ art from Cuba you need to get a permit which has to be declared at the airport.

 Desperate to eat something different we tried to find a restaurant that offered some variety, but settled for an average meal at the hotel.

14th November, 2013

Washing of the bones.

We have done almost a full circle. 14 days of pure Cuba. After some debate it was decided we would head towards Varadero, the holiday Mecca of Cuba.

En route we stopped at Cienfegues. At the entrance to the town is a cemetery built in memory of a sugar Barron's young son who died of TB. Probably the most interesting tour we have done. Tombs are above ground and bodies are exhumed after a year when the family gathers to wash the bones. They are then replaced in a separate section of the grave, giving way to recycle the tomb. If your fella was a Casanova don't be surprised to find a group of senioritas to help you. Imagine the bone throwing that happens then.

Note how these mass graves are raised. The tombstones on the top have been taken from graves, bones washed and collectively gathered. Mass graves are used for poorer people who worked in specific fields, like doctors, engineers, teachers.

Every major town in Cuba has a memorial site for those who fought in Angola. When Mandela came into power he enabled the Cuban Government to collect the bones of the fallen soldiers, to be washed and brought back home. It was an important gesture from South Africa.

We have agreed that we are pretty useless tourists and dragged our feet around Cienfegues in the heat. The architecture is amazing, as with most places in Cuba.

The four hour drive to Veradero had its hair raising moments, wedging Joan further into her corner -more silence from the back seat.

We settled on a rather miserable 2 star Government nationalised hotel, called Herradura (should be Horror-dura), Rob and I drawing the long straw for the Rosita Fornes suite, complete with rusty fridge, dilapidated balcony, peeling paint and door-less cupboards.

These photos actually give the Horror Hotel more credit than it deserves, with a balcony you don't want to step off!

We had a couple of drinks at a local drinking spot, listening to traditional music. We moved on to the Salsa Suarez restaurant where we had the best meal so far. I had camonores (prawns) in 'bang bang' sauce which I had to send back to get rid of one bang! Eish, hot!

Horse Power

Cuba has had a long tradition of using horses for riding and for urban and rural transport. The national population of horses has been in decline for some time and now stands at about 400,000. Recent trends suggest resurgence in the use of horses for pulling carts and carriages, and the population may stabilise or even grow. Mules (30,000) are mainly used for riding and packing in the mountain areas (one quarter of the country is hilly). There is quite a small population of donkeys (6000) that are mainly used for breeding mules. 

Since 1990, and the break up of the socialist trading bloc, Cuba has been experiencing special economic conditions, with problems relating to the cost and/or availability of fuel and spare parts for motor vehicles. This led to an increase in the use of horses for both rural and urban transport. Private operators provide public transport in many towns using horse-drawn buses and carriages. The government regulates these, and licence conditions require animals to be inspected. There are limits to the permitted loading of horse-drawn passenger and freight transport. Pack transport in the mountains is unregulated, but overloading does not appear to be a problem. Although some animals used for urban transport are thin, animal health and husbandry is generally good, with excellent veterinary services.

Source: The importance of horses, mules and donkeys in modern Cuba.
 by Paul Starkey, Arcadio Ríos, Humberto Valdés and Pedro Sotto.

This hilarious picture was taken in Moron. The owner handed over the reins, and his hat, to Llyris who sat comfortable in the seat. Meanwhile (back at the ranch) Rob was terrifying some poor old dear in the back with his best Spanish translation of how she could expect the ride of her life!

This was us buying lunch on the street in Varadero where the buggie drivers were also dining.